Please to stay, lady

Yes, today was a jet lag day, but I decided to go exploring a bit and felt the need to share with you ;)

A couple of housekeeping trivialities. I did change my room. I now have a bigger room, with a terrace and view of the street. Did a little grocery shopping, got the necessities I had forgotten (shampoo, conditioner, toothpaste, etc.) and emergency sustenance (PB and J, bread, water). They have a brand of biscuit here (or cookie, dang British colonial holdovers…) that is called Rafiki, which I know means friend in Swahili, but I had to buy. It just seemed fitting…

My new room. The TV gets 4 channels. One in Swahili, two in English and one in Sports...

With my brand new terrace view, I did a little people watching. It’s both what I expected and not what I expected at the same time. I know that doesn’t make much sense, and I blame Disney for that. There’s a book I read long ago, White Noise by Don Delillo, I think is the name of it. And it discussed the phenomenon of a simulacrum, pointing specifically to Disneyworld (or maybe Disneyland, the details are hazy) as the perfect example. The creation of a place that can mimic reality, but is separated from the truth by obliterating the less than desirable features. Perhaps this travel blog isn’t the place to dive into philosophical discussion, but it struck me that various simulacra have left me somewhat prepared, but almost wholly unready for this journey.

Don’t get me wrong, I know that Animal Kingdom isn’t real. I am fully aware that Disney magic has made Harambe a magical town with no litter, no soldiers, and happy street performers who play drums for gawking tourists. But still, it left me with the feeling that I wouldn’t be physically shocked by what I encountered in Africa. And, I have to say, in that respect, it did help. I am still a fish out of water, but it’s not completely alien.

So what did Disney leave out that I should’ve thought to expect? To be honest, I’m not sure I can list it all in words, I’ll leave it to pictures to describe. Though, bonus points to Cool Station at Epcot, they have Krest lemon ale, which my palate is predisposed to enjoy already!

The view towards town.

Soldiers with very real guns hanging out outside the bank across the street

A woman begging for shillings

I went exploring down to the shore of Lake Victoria, very uncertain of what I would find. Visions of a quiet spot to sit and reflect were soon expelled... It's a rough and rocky dirt road that leads down to the water, where a little "beach" town of "resorts" has cropped up. A string of ramshackle huts with tin roofs lined the water, each with professionally printed signs "Obama Hotel", "Kisumu Hotel", etc. I walked past and to the water's edge, where I was immediately greeted by boat owners wanting to take me on a hippo tour. Very friendly, and not as pushy as I had expected. "What country you from, madame?" "America" "Ahh! Home of Obama!" They were persistent, but gave me business cards as I assured them that I had only just arrived and that before I leave I would want to go hippo gazing.

The resort hotels of Lake Victoria, Kisumu-style

Behind the resorts were cafes, of a sort, with racks of freshly smoked fish prominently displayed. I was quick to turn them down, until one woman, probably in her late teens came to me, with her toddler in tow, asking me to please come eat at their place. "But, I don't like fish" mentally adding, that come from the not-so-safe waters of Victoria. The little girl tugged at my jeans, "Please to stay, lady, we have chicken."

And that is how I ended up sitting on the shore of Lake Victoria watching the local car wash, eating 1/2 a grilled chicken with my hands and drinking an orange fanta. There were no napkins to speak of, but they brought a jug of water and soap to the table to let you wash your hands before and after the meal. All for 300 Ksh (less than $4). I had no side dishes, only because I couldn't for the life of me understand what they were offering. There were beach-side peddlers, trying to sell "legitimate" copies of DVDs and video games, music, and Obama paraphenalia. I smiled, took a few notes in my journal and sipped my fanta.

Car washing in Kisumu means parking your car in the shallows and using lake water to clean up!

Tomorrow is a new day, and I go to the hospital for the first time to meet the head nurse and staff surgeons and finally get some idea of what my life will be like for the next month.

Stay tuned ;)